2019.10.10

ハワイ島ワイマヌ渓谷ハイキングand wander journal #02

切り立った岸壁と、海と川が印象的な写真を見て、いつか行きたいと思っていたワイマヌ渓谷。そこはハワイ島北東部のホノカアの街をさらに北に進んだところにあり、ワイピオ渓谷から始まるムリワイトレイルの14km先にある。ネットで情報がうまく集められず、何年か前に現地ガイドに相談したら、行ったことがないからと断わられたり、20万円超えの見積りがきたり、一時は諦めた場所だった。今回も変わらない情報量で、切り取ったガイドブックのページとキャンプサイトのパーミットを持って、1/25000の地図もないまま、現地に入った。

Having seen the dramatic picture of the steep valley walls with the ocean and a stream, I have always wanted to visit the Waimanu Valley. It is on the northeast coast of the Big Island of Hawaii, just north of Honokaa; it is about a 9-mile hike down the Muliwai Trail, starting from the Waipio Valley. Back in the day, I asked some local guides for a tour since I had difficulties collecting information off the internet. However, I ended up not going because the guide didn’t have such a tour, or another gave me an estimation of over $1,800. It was a place where I once gave up. Now, several years later, the amount of information I had was still very little, but nevertheless, I grabbed my guidebook clippings and a camping permit, and even without a 1/25000 scale map, I headed to the Big Island.

いつもの山道具に、浄水器と3日分の食事、それにパックラフトを用意した。グーグルマップと簡単な地形図をみると、滝壺から海までは標高差がない。パックラフトを携えたのは、谷に広がる湿原に漕ぎ出たら、さぞ美しかろう楽しかろうとわくわくしたからだ。この時は、合わせて数kgの重さより、好奇心が勝った。てこずったのはガス缶探しで、アウトドアショップのないハワイ島では、大型スーパーやセブンイレブンをまわり、手に入れるのに半日かかった。

I packed water purifier, food for 3 days, and a packraft in addition to my regular mountaineering goods. According to Google Map and a rough topographic map, the elevation from the waterfall to the ocean seemed to be nearly the same. I decided to take a packraft with me when I got thrilled by the beautiful scenery and the excitement of exploring as I pictured myself rafting out to the extensive wetlands in the valley. I knew this would add a few extra pounds, but at this point, my curiosity got the better of me. I rather had a hard time finding gas canisters. Since there were no outdoor shops on the Big Island, it took me half a day hopping around supermarkets and convenience stores, just to find a place where I can buy them.

残念だけど、このトレイルは、歩くのを楽しむというより、キャンプ地への道と考えたほうがいい。海を見下ろせるのは、初めの登り返しだけで、単調なアップダウンが樹林帯の中で続く。急ごしらえにくくりつけたパックラフトの重さが体を振らし、じわじわと体力を奪っていく。出せるかもわからないのに、持ってきたことを後悔し、なんどもデポを考えた。風は止まり、気温が上がる。渡渉のたびに襲ってくる蚊と暑さで集中力は切れて、もともと頼りにならない地図の、どこを歩いているかわからなくなった。谷に向かうバテた私たちに、谷から戻るハイカーが声をかける。谷のキャンプ地がどれだけ特別で素晴らしかったかを、みんなが満面の笑みで伝えてくるのだ。これが足を進める力になって、なんとか渓谷の入口に流れるワイマヌ川に辿り着いた。ここが写真の場所だった。トレイルヘッドまでの3kmを合わせた17kmのアップダウンを9時間以上歩いた体には、もう感動する力は残ってなくて、潜ってしまいそうな水深に呆然とした。相方が迷いなくパックラフトを膨らませて、荷物と一緒に私を対岸まで運んだ。

Unfortunately, it may be better to think that this trail is only a path to get to the campsite rather than a path to enjoy hiking. The trail begins with an uphill where you can overlook the ocean, but after that, monotonous up-and-down hiking continues in the woodlands. The packraft that I tied to my backpack in a makeshift way swayed as I walk, and its heaviness was sapping my energy. I wasn’t even sure if I’d ever get the chance to use it. This made me regret my past decision and kept making me think of leaving it behind on the way. The wind died down and the temperature was rising. Along with the heat, I was also getting attacked by mosquitoes every time I wade across a stream and had completely lost my concentration. I had no clue where I was on my helpless map. The hikers who were on their way back sees us heading to the valley exhausted. We would have a chat and every single person we met would share how extraordinary and gorgeous it was at the campsite with their biggest smile on their faces. Their beautiful stories encouraged us to push ourselves forward and we managed to finally reach the Waimanu Stream, welcoming us at the entrance of the valley. It was the exact same place as the picture I saw. Including the 2 miles to get to the trailhead, it was about 10.5 miles of constant up-and-down hiking, taking us more than 9 hours to get to the place. Completely worn-out from the long hike, I had no energy left to be impressed and just stood there dazed as I looked down the stream, deep enough to make me fully submerge underwater. My partner immediately inflated the parckraft and took me to the opposite side of the stream with our backpacks.

岸壁に包まれるように位置したキャンプ地は、力強く繰り返す波と谷の静けさに挟まれた不思議な場所だった。光が谷にさまざまな表情をつくり、夜空は星だらけだ。パックラフトで漕ぎ出た湿原の奥にハスの花が咲いていた。蚊のいない、話に聞いた通りの極上のキャンプ地だった。渓谷側のサイトにテントを張り、焚き火をして過ごした。いくつかのグループが、入れ替わりながら、思い思いに滞在していた。時折、トレランの人が日帰りで訪れる以外は、ひと気の少ない場所である。

Surrounded by the vertical cliffs, the campsite was located between the powerful tides of the ocean and the silence of the valley. It was an interesting place. The lights create rich expressions across the valley, and the night sky was full of beautiful stars. Exploring further down the wetland, we found lotus flowers blooming. There were no mosquitoes, and the campsite was excellent, just as everyone said. We put up a tent at a campsite on the valley-side and sat around the campfire we built. There were also some other groups besides us, sometimes changing places and enjoying their stay in their own way. Except for some trail runners visiting for a day trip, Waimanu Valley is a very quiet place with only a few visitors.

ハワイに行くならオススメしたい。トレイルが長いから3泊以上がいい。ガス管はネットで注文して、涼しい時間から歩いてほしい。パックラフトには助けられたけど、運ぶ時間のほうが長いから考えものだ。極上のキャンプ地で、ぐうたら昼寝して本を読み、のんびり過ごすには最高の場所だから。

If you plan to go to Hawaii, I recommend you visit this valley. Hiking down the trail would be a long trip, so I suggest you give yourself at least 3 nights. Order the gas canister online beforehand and start hiking when the temperature is cool. The packraft does help but think twice before you choose to bring it with you because you do have to spend more time carrying than using. Waimanu Valley is the best place to chill-out, take a nap, and have a relaxing time at the most amazing campsite.

text&photography Mihoko Mori